What Is Leather Conditioner? How to Use It & Which Type to Choose
Leather can last for many years, but it needs looking after.
As leather is worn and exposed to heat, moisture, dirt and everyday flexing, it can gradually lose the oils that help keep it soft and flexible. This is where leather conditioner comes in.
But choosing a conditioner isn't always straightforward. There are traditional leather conditioners, lotions, balms, mink oils, neatsfoot oils, hide foods and combination products that clean, condition and protect at the same time.
So what does leather conditioner actually do, how should you use it and which type is right for your shoes or other leather goods?
This guide explains the differences, including when you might choose a conventional conditioner rather than mink oil or neatsfoot oil, how conditioner compares with shoe cream and polish, and some common conditioning mistakes to avoid.
You can also browse our complete range of leather conditioners, oils and leather-care treatments.
What Is Leather Conditioner?
Leather conditioner is a care product designed to replenish oils and moisture within suitable leather, helping it remain soft, flexible and resistant to drying and cracking.
Leather contains oils that contribute to its characteristic flexibility. Over time, some of these oils can be lost through wear, cleaning, exposure to dry conditions and environmental factors.
Conditioning helps replace what has been lost.
Depending on the formulation, a leather conditioner may also help:
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soften dry or stiff leather
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maintain flexibility
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reduce the risk of premature cracking
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improve the appearance of dull leather
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preserve the leather
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provide some resistance to moisture
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leave a soft or mellow finish
Some products perform several jobs at once.
For example, the manufacturer describes Angelus Leather Conditioner 8oz/236ml as a product that cleans, preserves and conditions, while Fiebing's describes its 4 Way Care Leather Conditioner as combining cleaning, conditioning, preserving and protective properties.
What Does Leather Conditioner Do?
The easiest way to understand conditioner is to think about flexibility.
Healthy leather should be able to bend and flex without becoming excessively dry or brittle.
Conditioning products introduce oils, waxes or other conditioning ingredients that help maintain that flexibility.
This is particularly useful on areas of footwear that constantly bend, such as:
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the vamp across the front of a shoe
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ankle areas on boots
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flex points around the sides
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leather straps
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folds in bags and accessories
Conditioning cannot make damaged leather new again, but regular appropriate care can help prevent avoidable deterioration.
How Can You Tell When Leather Needs Conditioning?
Leather doesn't need to be conditioned simply because a particular number of days have passed.
Instead, look at the leather itself.
Signs that suitable leather may benefit from conditioning include:
Dryness – the surface appears noticeably drier than normal.
Stiffness – leather feels less flexible than it previously did.
Dull appearance – the natural richness or depth has reduced.
Fine dry lines – flex areas begin showing dryness when the leather bends.
Recent deep cleaning – some cleaning processes remove oils as well as dirt.
Exposure to demanding conditions – heat, dry environments, moisture and outdoor use can all affect leather.
The aim is preventative care.
It is much easier to maintain healthy leather than to try to rescue leather after deep structural cracking has developed.
How to Use Leather Conditioner
Application varies between products, so the manufacturer's instructions for your chosen conditioner should always take priority.
However, the typical process for a suitable smooth leather item is as follows.
1. Identify the Leather
Before applying anything, make sure the conditioner is suitable for the material.
Smooth leather, suede, nubuck, exotic leather, oil-tanned leather and heavily coated leather can all have different requirements.
2. Remove Loose Dirt
Use a soft cloth or an appropriate shoe cleaning brush to remove dust and loose dirt.
There's little benefit in working dirt into the leather along with the conditioner.
3. Clean If Necessary
If the leather is genuinely dirty, clean it first using an appropriate product from our shoe and leather cleaners range.
For suitable smooth leather requiring a deeper clean, our guide to using saddle soap on leather explains the different options and application methods.
Allow cleaned leather to dry appropriately before moving on to conditioning.
4. Test the Conditioner
This is one of the most important steps.
The manufacturer will commonly recommend testing leather-care products on a small, inconspicuous area first.
Conditioners containing oils can deepen the appearance of some leather, particularly lighter colours and absorbent finishes.
5. Apply a Small Amount
Follow the manufacturer's directions and start with an appropriate amount rather than saturating the leather.
Many conditioners are applied using a clean, soft cloth or applicator.
6. Work the Product Evenly
Distribute the conditioner evenly across the leather.
Avoid repeatedly loading one small area with product while leaving surrounding areas untreated.
7. Allow It to Absorb
Give the conditioner the time recommended by the manufacturer to work into the leather.
Different lotions, oils, balms and wax-rich products behave differently, so there isn't one universal absorption time.
8. Buff If Required
Some products are designed to be buffed afterwards to remove excess material and improve the finish.
Again, follow the directions supplied with your particular conditioner.
Leather Conditioner vs Leather Cleaner
A leather cleaner and leather conditioner generally perform different jobs.
| Product | Main Purpose |
|---|---|
| Leather cleaner | Removes dirt, grime and unwanted surface residue |
| Leather conditioner | Replenishes and maintains leather |
| Saddle soap | Traditional deeper cleaning, sometimes with additional conditioning properties |
| Shoe cream | Restores colour while offering some nourishment and shine |
| Wax polish | Adds shine and surface protection |
Cleaning comes first when leather is dirty.
Conditioning comes afterwards when the leather requires nourishment.
Applying conditioner over heavily soiled leather can simply leave you working dirt and contamination into the surface.
For deeper cleaning, see our complete saddle soap guide.
Leather Conditioner vs Shoe Cream
This is another common source of confusion.
Both products can help maintain leather, but their main purposes are different.
Leather conditioner focuses primarily on maintaining the leather itself.
Shoe cream combines conditioning ingredients with colour and finishing properties.
A coloured shoe cream can therefore help restore:
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faded colour
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light scuffs
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uneven appearance
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depth of shade
while also providing some conditioning.
A dedicated conditioner is more useful when the primary issue is dryness or stiffness rather than colour loss.
If you're unsure which you need, our guide to shoe cream vs polish and wax explains the differences in detail.
Leather Conditioner vs Shoe Polish
Leather conditioner and shoe polish should not be considered interchangeable.
A conditioner primarily works to maintain flexibility and replenish the leather.
Shoe polish is primarily used to improve colour, shine and the surface appearance of footwear.
Traditional smooth-leather shoe care can therefore involve both.
A general sequence might be:
Clean → Condition → Shoe Cream → Wax Polish
However, you won't necessarily need all four products every time.
If your leather is healthy but simply needs more shine, conditioning may not be necessary.
Likewise, if dry leather needs nourishment but you don't want a polished finish, conditioner may be all that is required.
Browse our shoe polish collection for traditional finishing products.
Leather Conditioner vs Wax Polish
Wax polish works mainly towards the surface of the leather.
Its strengths are shine and surface protection, particularly on areas such as the toe and heel of formal footwear.
Conditioner has a different priority: maintaining the flexibility and condition of the leather.
That is why a highly polished shoe can still have dry leather underneath if it has been repeatedly waxed but never appropriately conditioned.
For formal shoes, conditioner, shoe cream and wax can complement rather than replace one another.
Does Leather Conditioner Waterproof Leather?
Not necessarily.
Some conditioning products also provide water resistance, while others focus predominantly on nourishment.
For example, Fiebing's describes 4 Way Care as combining conditioning with protective properties, while its Mink Oil Liquid is formulated to soften, preserve and waterproof smooth leather.
Other conditioners may provide little dedicated waterproofing.
If protection from rain and stains is your main objective, choose a product specifically designed for that purpose from our shoe and leather protectors.
Always check what the manufacturer actually claims for the product you're using.
What Are the Different Types of Leather Conditioner?
This is where choosing a product becomes more interesting.
"Leather conditioner" is really a broad category.
Different formulations can give noticeably different results.
General Leather Conditioner or Lotion
A conventional leather conditioner or lotion is usually the easiest starting point when you simply want to maintain smooth leather without applying a heavy oil or wax-rich treatment.
Angelus Leather Conditioner is a good example.
Angelus states that it can clean, preserve and condition smooth, exotic and naked leathers, making it a versatile general-care product.
This type of conditioner can be particularly useful for:
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shoes
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boots
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bags
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jackets
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accessories
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general leather maintenance
Multi-Purpose Leather Conditioner
Some products combine several stages of leather care.
Fiebing's 4 Way Care Leather Conditioner is designed by the manufacturer to clean, condition, preserve and protect smooth leather.
This makes multi-purpose products useful when you want a straightforward maintenance routine rather than separate treatments for every stage.
However, specialist cleaning may still be preferable when leather is heavily soiled.
What Is Mink Oil?
Mink oil has long been used as a leather-conditioning and preserving treatment.
Mink-oil products are generally richer than light leather lotions and are often chosen for boots, outdoor footwear and leather that needs more substantial conditioning.
For example, Fiebing's states that its Liquid Mink Oil combines mink oil with pure neatsfoot oil to soften, preserve and waterproof smooth leather.
Our conditioner range also includes options such as:
Meltonian Mink Oil Conditioner 125ml
and Angelus mink-oil products in different formats.
Mink oil can be particularly useful for rugged footwear and leather exposed to demanding use.
Does Mink Oil Darken Leather?
It can.
Oil-rich conditioners can deepen the appearance of some leather, especially light, natural or absorbent finishes.
That may be desirable on rugged boots but less welcome on pale dress shoes or handbags.
This is one of the reasons testing on a hidden area first is so important.
What Is Neatsfoot Oil?
Neatsfoot oil is another traditional leather-conditioning treatment.
Fiebing's describes its 100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil as a natural preservative intended particularly for leather subjected to rugged use and outdoor exposure.
Its primary purpose is to replace oils lost from leather.
This makes neatsfoot oil particularly associated with:
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saddlery
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tack
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work leather
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outdoor leather
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heavy leather goods
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dry or stiff traditional leather
It is a considerably different proposition from using a light maintenance lotion on a pair of fine dress shoes.
Again, the leather type and desired finish should determine the product.
Mink Oil vs Neatsfoot Oil
Both are traditional leather-conditioning treatments, but they aren't identical.
| Mink Oil Products | Neatsfoot Oil |
|---|---|
| Often formulated for conditioning plus protection | Primarily associated with replenishing oils |
| Frequently used on boots and outdoor leather | Traditionally associated with saddlery and rugged leather |
| May include additional oils/waxes depending on product | Available as pure oil or compound formulations |
| Can deepen some leather colours | Can also darken absorbent leather |
| Useful where moisture resistance is desirable | Useful where replacing lost oils is the priority |
Neither should automatically be considered "better".
The right choice depends on the leather and what you're trying to achieve.
What Is Leather Balm or Hide Food?
Leather balms and traditional "hide food" products occupy another part of the conditioner spectrum.
They often combine conditioning ingredients with waxes or other components designed to nourish and maintain leather.
For example, BIRCH Hide Food Neutral 118ml is part of our conditioner range and provides another option for traditional leather maintenance.
A balm or hide food can suit people looking for a richer treatment without necessarily choosing a straight conditioning oil.
What About Dubbin?
Dubbin is traditionally associated with conditioning and weather protection, particularly on boots and heavier leather footwear.
It tends to be more waxy or greasy than an everyday shoe cream.
This makes dubbin particularly useful where durability and moisture resistance are more important than producing a high formal shine.
Our conditioner collection includes both TRG Dubbin and BIRCH Dubbin alongside lighter conditioners and oils.
For delicate formal footwear, however, you may prefer a lighter conditioner followed by cream or wax polish.
Which Leather Conditioner Should You Choose?
There isn't one conditioner that's best for every item.
A useful way to narrow the choice is to start with the job you're asking the product to do.
| What You Want | Type to Consider |
|---|---|
| General smooth-leather maintenance | Leather conditioner/lotion |
| Clean + condition in one product | Multi-purpose conditioner |
| Dry rugged boots | Mink oil or richer conditioner |
| Saddlery or heavy outdoor leather | Neatsfoot oil or specialist heavy-duty conditioner |
| Conditioning plus weather resistance | Mink oil, dubbin or protective conditioner |
| Traditional leather nourishment | Balm or hide food |
| Colour restoration as well as nourishment | Shoe cream |
| High shine | Wax polish |
Browse all of the options in our leather conditioners collection.
Recommended Leather Conditioners From Our Range
Rather than saying one product is universally "best", these are useful starting points depending on what you're caring for.
Angelus Leather Conditioner
Angelus Leather Conditioner 8oz/236ml is one of the most versatile choices in the range.
The manufacturer describes it as suitable for smooth, exotic and naked leather and designed to clean, preserve and condition.
Consider it for: general leather care, shoes, boots, bags and accessories.
Explore more Angelus shoe and leather care products.
Fiebing's 4 Way Care
Fiebing's 4 Way Care Leather Conditioner is designed for people who want several leather-care functions in one treatment.
Fiebing's describes it as cleaning, conditioning, preserving and protecting smooth leather.
Consider it for: straightforward all-round leather maintenance.
Explore our wider Fiebing's leather care range.
Fiebing's Liquid Mink Oil
Fiebing's Liquid Mink Oil is a richer option intended to soften, preserve and provide water resistance to smooth leather.
Consider it for: boots, rugged footwear and outdoor leather.
Fiebing's Pure Neatsfoot Oil
Fiebing's Pure Neatsfoot Oil is a traditional treatment for replacing oils lost from leather.
Consider it for: saddlery, heavy leather, outdoor equipment and suitably robust dry leather.
TRG Mink Oil
TRG Mink Oil 100ml Neutral provides another convenient mink-oil option for leather maintenance.
Consider it for: boots and appropriate smooth leather needing richer conditioning.
Meltonian Mink Oil
Meltonian Mink Oil Conditioner is another traditional conditioning option within the mink-oil category.
Consider it for: smooth leather footwear and suitable leather goods where richer nourishment is required.
BIRCH Hide Food
BIRCH Hide Food Neutral offers a traditional hide-food style treatment.
Consider it for: general traditional leather nourishment and maintenance.
Can You Over-Condition Leather?
Yes.
More conditioner does not automatically produce healthier leather.
Excessive product can leave some leather:
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overly soft
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greasy
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sticky
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darker than expected
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prone to attracting dirt
Repeated heavy conditioning can also unnecessarily alter the feel and appearance of leather.
Apply according to the manufacturer's directions rather than continually adding more because the leather will absorb it.
How Often Should You Condition Leather Shoes?
There isn't a single correct timetable.
How often conditioning is required depends on:
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how frequently the footwear is worn
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the leather type
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climate and storage conditions
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exposure to rain or heat
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how frequently the leather is cleaned
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the conditioner being used
Leather shoes worn occasionally in mild conditions may need very little conditioning.
Boots used regularly outdoors may need attention more frequently.
Rather than conditioning automatically every week, inspect the leather periodically and condition it when its condition indicates that nourishment is needed.
Can You Use Leather Conditioner on Suede or Nubuck?
Don't automatically apply an ordinary smooth-leather conditioner to suede or nubuck.
Their open, textured surface behaves differently and many oils, creams and lotions can alter the nap or colour.
However, there are exceptions.
Some manufacturers make products specifically approved for suede or nubuck — Angelus, for example, markets its aerosol mink oil for certain suede applications.
The important lesson is therefore not simply "never condition suede", but:
Use only a product whose manufacturer specifically says it is suitable for suede or nubuck.
Can Leather Conditioner Restore Cracked Leather?
Conditioner can improve dryness and flexibility, but it cannot reverse a deep structural crack.
Once leather fibres have physically split, conditioning will not join them back together.
Conditioner is most valuable before leather reaches that stage.
For damaged surfaces requiring recolouring or restoration, you may need a different process entirely. Our guide to leather dye vs leather paint explains some of those options.
Can Leather Conditioner Change the Colour?
Yes, some conditioners can temporarily or permanently deepen leather.
The effect is usually most noticeable on:
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pale leather
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natural leather
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unfinished leather
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absorbent leather
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vegetable-tanned leather
Rich oils such as mink oil and neatsfoot oil can be particularly noticeable.
Always test first if maintaining the exact original shade is important.
Should You Condition New Leather Shoes?
Not automatically.
New leather may already contain sufficient oils and finishing treatments.
Conditioning a brand-new pair simply because they're new can therefore be unnecessary.
Assess the leather and follow the footwear and leather-care product manufacturer's recommendations.
Conditioning becomes more relevant as leather begins to lose suppleness or after suitable cleaning.
Should Leather Conditioner Be Used Before or After Polish?
Generally, conditioning comes before cream or polish when conditioning is required.
The logic is simple:
Clean → Condition → Restore Colour → Polish/Protect
Allow the conditioner to absorb according to its instructions before applying further products.
This helps avoid trying to condition through a heavy layer of wax polish.
Common Leather Conditioning Mistakes
Applying Conditioner to Dirty Leather
Clean away significant dirt first rather than working contamination into the surface.
Using Too Much Product
Start with the amount recommended by the manufacturer.
Leather doesn't benefit from being saturated simply for the sake of it.
Skipping the Test Patch
Oil-rich products can alter colour considerably.
Assuming Every Leather Is the Same
Smooth leather, naked leather, suede, nubuck, exotic leather and coated leather can respond very differently.
Using a Heavy Oil When a Light Conditioner Would Do
A rugged work boot and a pale formal shoe don't necessarily require the same treatment.
Conditioning Already Cracked Leather and Expecting a Repair
Conditioning maintains leather. It isn't a structural leather repair.
Frequently Asked Questions About Leather Conditioner
What is leather conditioner used for?
Leather conditioner is used to maintain suitable leather by replenishing oils and helping keep it soft and flexible.
Does leather conditioner stop cracking?
Appropriate conditioning can help prevent dryness that contributes to cracking, but it cannot guarantee that leather will never crack or repair leather that has already structurally split.
Is leather conditioner the same as shoe polish?
No. Conditioner primarily nourishes leather, while shoe polish primarily restores appearance, colour and shine.
Is leather conditioner the same as shoe cream?
No. Shoe cream usually combines conditioning with pigments and finishing ingredients designed to restore colour and create a natural shine.
Do I need conditioner if I use shoe cream?
Not necessarily every time. Shoe creams can provide some nourishment themselves. Use dedicated conditioner when the leather actually requires additional conditioning.
Should I clean leather before conditioning?
If the leather is dirty, yes. Follow the manufacturer's directions for both the cleaner and conditioner.
Does leather conditioner waterproof shoes?
Some conditioners provide water resistance, while others don't. Check the manufacturer's claims for the particular product.
Is mink oil a leather conditioner?
Yes. Mink-oil products are commonly used to condition and preserve leather, although their richer formulation can behave differently from a light conditioner or lotion.
Is neatsfoot oil a leather conditioner?
Yes. Neatsfoot oil is a traditional oil used to replace oils lost from leather and preserve suitable leather goods.
Is mink oil better than leather conditioner?
Mink oil is a type of leather-conditioning treatment, not automatically a superior alternative. It is generally richer and may be more suitable for rugged or outdoor leather than delicate formal shoes.
Does leather conditioner darken leather?
It can. Always test a hidden area first, especially when using oils on light or absorbent leather.
Can leather be conditioned too often?
Yes. Excessive conditioning can leave leather greasy, overly soft or darker than intended.
How long should leather conditioner sit?
Follow the manufacturer's directions. Absorption and buffing times differ between formulations.
Can I polish shoes after conditioning?
Yes, where appropriate. Allow the conditioner to absorb first, then apply a suitable cream or polish according to its instructions.
Can you use leather conditioner on handbags?
Many leather conditioners are suitable for handbags, but handbag leather can be delicate or highly finished. Check product suitability and test first.
Can you use leather conditioner on jackets?
Many conditioners can be used on suitable leather jackets. Choose a product appropriate for the particular leather and follow its manufacturer's directions.
Can you use conditioner on suede?
Only if the manufacturer specifically states that the product is suitable for suede or nubuck.
Can conditioner repair scratches?
It may make very light dryness or superficial marks less noticeable, but it will not repair deep scratches or missing surface material.
Can I use household oil instead of leather conditioner?
Purpose-made leather conditioners are formulated specifically for leather. Household cooking oils should not be assumed to provide the same result and may cause unwanted colour or residue changes.
The Simple Leather Care Routine
If you're unsure where conditioner fits into your shoe-care routine, remember:
1. Brush – Remove loose dust and dirt.
2. Clean – Use a suitable leather cleaner when required.
3. Condition – Nourish dry leather when necessary.
4. Cream – Restore colour and create a natural finish if needed.
5. Polish/Protect – Add shine or weather protection according to the item.
The key is not using every product every time.
Look at what the leather actually needs.
Final Thoughts
Leather conditioner is one of the most useful products for maintaining leather, but choosing the right type matters.
A light conditioner may be ideal for routine shoe or bag maintenance, while mink oil, neatsfoot oil, dubbin or a richer leather treatment may make more sense for boots, saddlery and outdoor leather.
The key differences are how much conditioning the leather needs, whether additional weather protection is required and how much you're prepared for the appearance of the leather to change.
Always identify the leather first, follow the manufacturer's directions, test the product in an inconspicuous area and avoid assuming that more conditioner will produce a better result.
If you're ready to choose a product, explore our full range of leather conditioners, mink oils, neatsfoot oils, dubbin and leather treatments.
And if you're building a complete shoe-care routine, you can also explore our shoe and leather cleaners, shoe creams, shoe polishes, shoe care brushes and leather protectors.
